When to Grow Strawberries in Michigan – 
There are two main guidelines when it comes to planting strawberries in Michigan.
The first is to plant in spring if possible. Fall brings with it temperature fluctuations that can harm strawberries. In fact, the soil heaving during this season may damage your plant roots beyond repair if you don’t give them adequate protection. If you must grow strawberries in the fall, do not put the plants in grassy or weedy areas where pests can compromise their health. Remember to mulch the soil when the weather reaches 20 to 30℉ as well. Otherwise, your crops will not survive until next year.
Just as importantly, calculate your gardening dates following these tips:
Start growing strawberries in Michigan outside after the last frost. Though you may seed them if you like, strawberries don’t germinate easily, and it’s wiser to use bare roots or transplants to ensure success. For those determined to use seeds, sow them indoors eight weeks before the final frost and move them outside once the weather warms up. Note that before sowing, you’ll have to stratify the seeds for 1 month first. In the case of fall plantings, six weeks before the first frost is the latest gardening date. While marking calendars, look up the frost dates for both spring and autumn where you live to ensure accuracy.
For example, Detroit has its average last and first frosts on April 24 and October 18, respectively. Using the rules above, residents here can plant strawberry seeds on February 27 indoors or wait until April 25 to garden outdoors. In the fall, they can start strawberry beds on September 6. Read more : The best time to, and etc.
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What time of year do you plant strawberries in Michigan?
Planting a strawberry patch Q.: I am planting a new patch of strawberries and would like to know if April 1 is about right, or should I have gotten them in sooner? Jay Baar, Hudsonville area A.: Early April is a good time to set out new strawberry plants in Michigan.
The rule of thumb is as early as the ground can be worked. Even though it was very cold this winter, most parts of Michigan had snow cover through early March and this cover kept frost from driving deep into the soil. Had we not had the snow, I suspect the soil would be barely workable by now. As it is, with snow absent for several weeks and some fine weather in late March, I think you’ll find the soil very workable.
I had my first strawberry of the year a few weeks ago, purchased from the grocery store and not surprisingly, it looked better than it tasted – but I sure am not complaining. Growing strawberries at home is almost sure to yield a harvest more sweet and juicy than anything you can buy at the store, unless the store offers homegrown.
- I suspect my first strawberry came from California; years ago I remember visiting Disneyland in Anaheim and being surprised, for some reason, to see strawberry fields surrounding it.
- This was 25-plus years ago and I suspect the fields have since been re-located to less pricey real estate.
- Growing strawberries is about as easy as growing tomatoes, not that you can’t have problems, but that success is almost guaranteed if you follow general guidelines.
Choice of varieties is huge – probably 30 or more and these fall into one of two major categories: June bearing or ever-bearing. The June type is the most popular and depending on the weather, they begin yielding fruit by Memorial Day and continuing through July 4.
Of course, these dates are arbitrary but they give you a sense of when you can expect to have fresh berries. Ever-bearing varieties produce fruit from about the same starting time and continue up through the first frost that in Michigan can be as early as Sept.15 and as late as Oct.15. June bearing types seem to be the most popular; perhaps this is when folks consider strawberries “in season” and thus especially fresh, tasty and wholesome.
The most serious pest problem we encounter is a disease called Red Stele. It is caused by a fungus and it is worse in soils that are either poorly drained or heavy. Unlike many fungal diseases, this one is most active in cool weather. The good news here is that many of the most popular varieties we grow are resistant to this disease, among them “Midway,” “Delite,” “Guardian,” “Scot” and “Earliglow.” When buying new plants, be sure to check the label for disease resistance.
- The gardener who is successful with strawberries is always buying new plants, to replace those that have lost their oomph in the garden.
- Each plant remains viable for perhaps three or four years and even though daughter plants are spreading by way of runners, restoration of the original patch is needed on an annual basis, especially three years after it was first established.
We’ve covered planting time. Planting depth, feeding and moisture are other key areas. New plants should be set out so the soil is up to the crown but not over it. Holes should be dug so the roots can be spread out. A planting hole fashioned with a soil cone at the base to hold the plant and allow for root dispersion is ideal.
New plants should have soil firmed up around the base of the plant and watered thoroughly with a slow-trickle soaker hose. Avoid at all times overhead irrigation of strawberries as this can prompt disease which can in turn disfigure or ruin the berries and spread disease. Spacing can be tricky, but a good rule of thumb is space plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows and space rows 18 inches apart.
This leaves plenty of room for runner and with them, the daughter plants that reach out and take root. It is important not to overcrowd the bed, as doing so will lead to a drop in production. Give the plants room to stretch and they will reward you with tasty berries.
- One other growing tip is this: Disease can be reduced and overall performance increased by spreading a mulch layer of straw around the plants.
- Only a couple of inches are needed and the straw will help reduce spread of disease organisms and keep the soil helpfully cool and moist.
- Beds should be kept evenly moist, but certainly not soggy or allowed to dry out.
Strawberries grow in even poor soils – the natural fertility of the soil is not as important as sharp drainage. Strawberries do best on meager feedings; too much fertilizer leads to foliage at the expense of fruit-producing blossoms. If you purchase a product or register for an account through one of the links on our site, we may receive compensation.
Do strawberries come back every year in Michigan?
FAQs – 
How long does it take to grow strawberries in Michigan? Since strawberries take up to three months or 90 days to bear fruits, whether we use bare roots or seeds, a planting time of April will result in a July harvest. Note that some strawberries may mature in sixty days as well, making a fruit yield in June possible.
Can strawberries survive Michigan winter? Yes. Strawberries will enter dormancy in winter and resume growth in spring with proper care. In Michigan’s zone 4 and 5, they often go dormant in November, while in the state’s zone 6, this often occurs a month later. If you grow strawberries in pots in Michigan, water, mulch the soil, and move the pots to a southern location during winter.
How to Grow Strawberries: Planting A Strawberry Bed
For plants that are in-ground, remove all dead leaves and cover the soil with four inches of pine needles. Are strawberries perennial in Michigan? Yes. Strawberries are perennial in Michigan. Expect them to last for at least two years, though six years are possible with proper management.
- It’s important to note that fruit production often declines from the third year onwards, so you may want to grow new plants before the current ones die.
- How to fertilize strawberries in Michigan? Before planting a strawberry patch, conduct a soil test to acquire fertilizer recommendations.
- If this isn’t possible, apply a balanced 12-12-12 formula one week before planting.
Go for a ratio of one fertilizer pound per 100 square feet at this time, and one month later, feed the strawberries with a 10-10-10 formula. Instead of 100 square feet, one pound of fertilizer should now cover a 20-foot row. From the second year onwards, reduce the amount of plant food to 0.5 pound per 20 feet.
How long does strawberry season last in Michigan?
What months or time frames can you pick strawberries in Michigan? Answer Hey Amber! Michigan strawberry season is mid June until around the first week of July. Here is a great list of Michigan U pick strawberries in Michigan! Strawberry Picking Michigan: Ultimate Map of U Pick Strawberries, Best Strawberry Farms and Fields for Berry Picking in MI, When is the Season? Cheers to Michigan Travel, Sherry Traveling Michigan For more ideas, check out Travel-Mi.com Traveling Michigan Events, Inspiration and FUN!
What vegetables can you grow in Michigan?
Cool-season and warm-season vegetables – Cool-season vegetables such as lettuce, peas and spinach will thrive early in the season. Tomatoes, peppers and melons will perform best when air and soil temperatures are much warmer. Warm-season crops are more sensitive to late-season frosts, and may show signs of stunted growth if set out too early.
What can you do with strawberries in the winter?
How to tuck in your strawberries for the winter December 17, 2020 So far, 2020 December temperatures have been slightly above average with very little snow across the state. For gardeners growing strawberries, this means you still have time to do one critical task.
Do I need to cover strawberries for frost?
Overhead irrigation – Strawberry Farming – Overhead Sprinklers for Irrigation and Frost Protection (video: 03:51) Using overhead irrigation during cold temperatures can protect strawberries from frost and freeze damage, as long as temperatures do not fall below 20° F.
It is very important to have an overhead irrigation system set up, as cold temperatures during bloom are common. Irrigation for frost protection is only effective when used correctly. Growers should read thoroughly about this practice before using it. Not applying enough water or stopping irrigation too early during a nighttime freeze, can cause more damage than not irrigating at all.
This method works when the water from overhead irrigation freezes and mixes with the sugars in the leaves and flowers. As the water changes to ice, it releases heat. So this only works if water is continuously applied during the freezing period and until temperatures rise above freezing.
Apply approximately 0.1-0.2 inch of water per acre per hour (3600 to 5700 gallons per hour) with one sprinkler head revolution per minute. Alter the application rate depending on the wind speed, temperature, and humidity. Higher wind speeds and lower air temperatures require higher volumes of water to work.
Spring frost protection is unnecessary during the planting year in day-neutral strawberries because the flowers are usually removed until the danger of frost is past. And they are often planted after the risk of a hard frost has passed. Frost protection in the fall can extend the harvest season. For more information:
Irrigation For Frost Protection Of Strawberries Principles of Freeze Protection for Fruit Crops Midwest Plan Service handbook on Sprinkler Irrigation Systems