- 1 What are the 3 types of sewing a button?
- 2 Are button down shirts hard to sew?
- 3 How many times should you stitch between holes when sewing on a button?
- 4 What is the difference between 2 hole and 4 hole buttons?
- 5 What is the difference between sew through buttons and shank buttons?
- 6 Can a beginner sew a shirt?
How to Sew Buttons Onto Shirts, Pants, and Well Anything Else – There are three common types of buttons that you will probably find on one or more garments in your wardrobe. These are the 2-hole, 4-hole, and shank buttons. You will often see 2-hole or 4-hole buttons attached to shirts or pants and shank buttons on coats, dresses, or shirts.
The first step to hand sewing a button is threading a needle with thread, Find a thin, small hand sewing needle and some thread, any thread is fine, polyester is a common thread in most sewing rooms today. If you aren’t a sewer pick up a cheap sewing kit to keep in your supply drawer. These are so handy to pop in the car too.
Most of these kits include hand sewing needles, mini scissors, a small supply of threads in lots of colours, and a needle threader. Handy right!
How to Sew a Button by Hand with a Shank – Finally, sewing a button with a shank starts out the same way. However, instead of passing the needle through a buttonhole, you will be passing it through the shank (or hole in the post) underneath. Thread your needle with double thread, and take note of or mark the position of the button.
- Bring the thread from the underside of the fabric to the top.
- Place the thread through the button shank and put the needle back down into the fabric.
- Bring the needle to the top and stitch through the shank a few more times.
- Bring the needle down to the inside of the fabric and knot it off a couple of times.
Sewing on a button is relatively easy when you have patience. It can be difficult to get the needle through the fabric or even to place the button back where it came from. With practice at this skill, you’ll be able to keep all your clothes in working order. Figure 7. A shank button. Credit: Heather Janney, UF/IFAS
The honest truth is that starting is the most difficult part. – You’ll only struggle (if at all) with your first shirt. As you move on to the second shirt, most likely you will be sewing like a pro! Making button-down shirts is not hard. As with anything, it just takes practice and patience.
You may need : Tape measure Needle Thread Scissors Toothpick or matchstick 1, First find the correct position for the button. When you are replacing a button that has fallen off, you can usually see where it should be by looking for traces of the original stitches.
- If any sign of the original position has vanished, then use a tape measure to check the distance between each button.2,
- Thread your needle, and tie the two ends together in a knot.
- Stitch up from inside the garment and do a couple of little stitches on the spot to secure the thread – I never rely on just a knot.3,
Thread the button on to the needle and start stitching through the buttonholes. If it is a two-hole button then just keep coming up through one hole and down through the next (see illustration below). If it is a four-hole button, then make sure you replicate the stitching in the rest of the buttons either with two parallel stitches or two diagonal stitches creating a cross.
Stitch through each hole about four or five times for a shirt button and about six to eight times for a coat button.4, Once you have finished the last stitch, come up underneath the button (a) (see illustration below) and wrap the thread around the stitching underneath the button a few times (b). This will protect the stitches and help hold the button in place.
Then take the thread back down to the inside of the garment (c) and do a couple of secure stitches. Different patterns, and finishing the job off. Illustration: Emma McGowan Photograph: Emma McGowan 5, Tie a loose knot in the thread and then insert the needle and push the knot down so it is flush with the fabric, tightening it as you go. Remove the needle and cut your threads – no shorter than 1cm from the knot.
When it comes to sewing a garment, buttons and button holes are usually some of the last things people think about. However, choosing the right ones can have a big outcome on how your finished project turns out. First, let’s talk about buttons. It’s always a good idea to pick your buttons before you start adding button holes to your project.
This way you will know what size and shape to make your button hole. Buttons can be found in many different shapes and sizes, and while you may be tempted to use a button simply because of its look or color, you still want to make sure it fits with your fabric and project. Types of Buttons One type of button is a flat button.
This type of button can be found with either two or four holes. Two-hole flat buttons are great for light- or medium-weight fabrics and are usually attached with the holes lined up parallel to the fabric edge. Four-hole flat buttons are better for heavy-weight fabrics, as the extra holes make for a stronger attachment. Shank buttons have a hole or loop at the back that is used to attach it to the fabric. A larger loop helps provide extra space between the button and the garment, making it a good choice for heavy-weight fabrics and projects like winter jackets. Shank buttons can also help a garment hang or drape better because of the smaller attachment area. Frogs, also known as Mandarin buttons, are made of string, plastic, or metal and have a loop on one side and some kind of knot on the other. These buttons are perfect if you don’t want to stitch a button hole because they don’t require one! Types of Button Holes Now let’s talk about button holes. The first is the basic straight, square button hole. It is one of the more commonly used button holes, especially for beginners. It is a good button hole for medium- to heavy-weight fabrics and also areas of a garment that may be subject to strain. Many machines have a sensor setting, an auto setting, or both that can create this button hole.
The sensor setting uses a special foot that holds the button being used and stitches the correct size button hole for that button. The auto setting will stitch this button hole to whatever size you tell it. Your machine may also have a setting that looks like the basic straight button hole but with zig-zag lines spaced further apart.
This is the setting you would want to use if stitching this button hole onto a stretch or knit fabric. The next button hole is similar to the first, but has either one or both rounded ends. This is a good button hole for light-weight fabrics and can have a more delicate look than the square button hole, making it a good choice for something like a blouse. A keyhole is another type of button hole. This button hole has one slightly larger rounded end to accommodate larger buttons and buttons with shanks. This button hole is perfect for heavy-weight fabrics and would be a good choice for a jacket. A final type of button hole is a bound button hole. Bound button holes can add a beautiful, professional touch to your project, but they are a little more work than a machine stitched button hole. Happy sewing! Related Videos: Bound Button Holes Made Easy Using a Button Hole Cutter Get in touch! Leave a comment or email [email protected],
Shank Buttons (Buttons without Holes) Shank buttons are buttons without holes through the top. They have a shank underneath to sew the button onto the garment. A shank type of button is a great option for jackets and thicker material or for a decorative finish making the button raised on the garment.
Different Button Shanks: Sew Through Buttons vs Shank Buttons – So which is best, sew through buttons or shank buttons? Here we compare the two sewing shanks: Sew through buttons have holes in the button blank (the main part of the button). There can be two or four holes, which are used to sew the buttons onto a garment.
Shank buttons have a “hidden” hole protruding from the back of the button. Sew through buttons are usually made from resin or other types of plastic, like nylon. Holes are drilled into resin buttons after they have been formed. Whilst for nylon buttons, the holes are formed in the mold after injection.
For shank buttons, the shank may be formed in the mold along with the rest of the button. Alternatively, the shank can be created as a separate component that is then attached to the button at a later stage. Because the shank button manufacturing process is more complicated than that of sew through buttons, shank buttons are sometimes more expensive. In terms of design, flat buttons are simple, classic and often unobtrusive. Shank buttons, on the other hand, come in a variety of different shapes and designs, making them decorative as well as functional items. Different types of designer buttons for coats. If you’re planning on buying shank buttons, there are a few things you need to ask yourself first:
What are you going to use the shank button for? For fastening or decoration? What materials, sizes, styles and colors are you looking for? What design are you looking for? And do you want to buy shank buttons in bulk?
Then search online to find a specialized and reliable button manufacturer like SUNMEI. We can help you find exactly the right button for your requirements. Still got questions about buttons? Check out this article on button types if you’d like to learn even more.
Finishing Your Decorative Stitches In sewing 101, we learn to lock our stitch when we reach the end of a seam. Lock, simply means to tie off the end of the thread within the stitch and prevent it from coming undone. With straight or zig zag stitches, reverse stitching is a fast and convenient option to locking your stitch – you go forward, back and forward again to complete the locking stitch. When you press the reverse stitch button for straight and zig zag setting, the machine will sew in reverse; with any other decorative stitches, the machine will automatically lock off and stop. All of Janome’s computerised machines have a locking stitch button, which allows you to lock off the stitches with a simple press of a button instead of reversing over the previous stitching.
- Decorative stitches are programmed to lock off once completed however there are two options you can choose to lock off your stitches.
- When using the auto-lock button, it allows you to complete the pattern repeat before locking the stitch.
- For example, if you wish to have five oval shaped stitches once it has started the fifth pattern repeat you press the Auto Lock Button and it will tie off once the repeat has completed.
However, if you are using the reverse button, it will stop stitching as soon as you press it and lock off. For example, if you want to sew three and a half ovals once you have completed to the point you wish simply press the reverse stitch button and the machine will commence locking the stitch and then stop immediately. Option 1: If you want the machine to finish its current pattern repeat then sew the locking stitch at the end, press the auto-lock button – it will give you a perfect end to your stitching. Option 2: If you want the machine to immediately stop and start sewing locking stitches, press the reverse stitch button.
Can a beginner sew a shirt?
Download Article Download Article As long as you know how to operate a sewing machine, you can sew your own shirt. If you’ve never sewn a shirt before, though, it might be easiest to start with a basic t-shirt. Work from a pattern or draft your own to begin the process.
- 1 Find a shirt that fits well. The easiest way to draft your own shirt pattern will be to copy the shape of an existing shirt that fits well.
- While this tutorial only covers t-shirt drafting and construction, you can follow the same basic steps to help draft patterns for other shirt styles.
- 2 Fold the shirt in half. Fold the shirt in half vertically, keeping the front sides out. Lay the halved shirt over a large sheet of paper.
- Ideally, you should place the paper over thick cardboard before placing the shirt on top. The cardboard will provide a stiff enough work surface to trace over. Moreover, you’ll need to stick pins into the paper, and doing so will be easier to accomplish with cardboard backing.
- 3 Pin along the back outline. Pin along the perimeter of the shirt, paying special attention to the back neckline seam beneath the collar and the sleeve seam.
- The pins you insert along the shoulder seam, sides, and bottom hem do not need to be precise since their main purpose is to hold the shirt down.
- For the sleeve seam, stick the pins straight down through the seam and into the paper. Space the pins no further than 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart.
- For the back neckline, stick the pins straight down through the seam connecting the back neckline to its collar. Space the pins 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart.
- 4 Trace the outline. Use a pencil to lightly trace around the entire outline of the shirt.
- Trace along the shoulder, sides, and bottom of the pinned shirt.
- After tracing these elements, lift away the shirt and find the holes marking the sleeve seam and neckline seam. Trace along these holes to complete the outline for the back pattern piece.
- 5 Pin along the front outline. Move the folded shirt over to a fresh piece of paper, pinning along the front outline instead of the back.
- Follow the same steps used for the shirt back to place the pins along the perimeter and sleeves of the shirt front.
- The front neckline is usually deeper than the back. To mark it out, place the pins beneath the front portion of the neckline, just beneath the collar. Keep them 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart and straight down.
- 6 Trace the outline. Trace along the front outline just as you traced along the back outline.
- Lightly trace the shoulder, sides, and bottom with pencil while the shirt remains pinned in place.
- Remove the shirt and trace along the pin marks of the neckline and sleeve to complete the front outline.
- 7 Pin and trace around the sleeve. Unfold the shirt. Flatten out one sleeve and pin it to clean paper. Trace around the outline.
- As before, insert the pins straight through the connecting seam.
- Trace around the top, bottom, and outer edge of the sleeve with the sleeve still in place.
- Remove the shirt from the paper and trace along the pin-marked seam to complete the outline.
- 8 Add seam allowances to each piece. Use a flexible ruler and pencil to carefully draw another outline around the current perimeter of each piece. This secondary outline will be the seam allowance.
- You can choose a seam allowance amount you feel comfortable with, but as a general rule, using a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance should give you plenty of room to work with.
- 9 Mark the pieces. Label each piece by part (back body, front body, and sleeve). Mark the fold line of each piece, as well.
- The fold line of the front and back body pieces will be the straight, folded edge of your original shirt.
- The fold line of the sleeve will be the straight top edge of the sleeve.
- 10 Cut and match the pieces. Carefully cut around each pattern piece outline. When finished, verify that the pattern pieces match one another.
- When you place the open sides of the front and back pieces together, the shoulders and armholes should match up.
- When you place the sleeve over the armhole of either main body piece, the actual measurement (not the seam allowance) should also match up.
- 1 Choose an appropriate material. Most t-shirts are made with knit fabric, but you may wish to choose a knit fabric with a fairly low amount of stretch to make the sewing process easier.
- As a general rule, though, it will be easiest to duplicate the fit of the original shirt you drafted your pattern from if you use a material similar in construction and weight.
- 2 Wash the fabric. Wash and dry the material as you usually would before you do anything else with it.
- By washing the fabric first, you can pre-shrink it and set the dye. As a result, the pattern pieces you cut out and sew together should be more accurately sized.
- 3 Cut the pattern pieces out. Fold the material in half and place your pattern pieces on top. Pin the pattern down, trace around it, and cut around each piece.
- Fold the material in half with the right-sides facing in, and keep the fabric as flat as possible when you lay it out.
- Match the fold of the fabric to each “fold” mark on your pattern pieces.
- When pinning the pattern pieces in place, pin straight through both layers of material. Trace around the entire outline with fabric pencil, then cut along the outline without unpinning the pattern.
- After cutting out the material, you can unpin and remove the paper pattern pieces.
- 1 Cut a length of ribbing for the collar. Measure the full neckline of your shirt with a flexible ruler or measuring tape. Subtract 4 inches (10 cm) from this measurement, then cut a piece of ribbing to that length.
- Ribbing is is a type of knit fabric with vertical ribs. You can technically use non-ribbed knits for your collar, but ribbing is generally preferred since it has an even greater amount of elasticity.
- Cut the width of the ribbing to double the amount of your final collar width.
- The vertical ribs should run parallel to the width of the collar and perpendicular to the length of the collar.
- 2 Fold and press the ribbing. Fold the ribbing in half lengthwise, then use an iron to press the fold.
- Note that the right-sides should be facing as you do this.
- 3 Stitch the ribbing closed. Fold the ribbing in half crosswise. Stitch the width ends of the strip together, using a 1/4-inch (6-mm) seam allowance.
- 1 Pin the body pieces together. Place the front and back body pieces together, right-sides facing inward. Pin around the shoulders only.
- 2 Sew the shoulders. Stitch straight across one shoulder seam. Cut the thread, then stitch straight across the other shoulder seam.
- You should be able to use a standard straight stitch on your sewing machine for this.
- Follow the seam allowance you marked out on your pattern pieces. If you’ve been following this tutorial exactly, the seam allowance will be 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).
- 3 Pin the ribbing to the neckline. Open the shirt and lay it flat at the shoulders, right-sides facing down. Place the ribbed collar over the neckline opening and pin it in place.
- Point the raw side of the collar toward the neckline and keep it above the shirt material. Pin it to the center back of the shirt and the center front.
- The collar will be smaller than the neckline opening, so you’ll need to gently stretch the collar as you pin it down to the rest of the neckline. Try to keep the ribbing evenly spaced.
- 4 Stitch the ribbing. Using a zigzag stitch, sew along the raw edge of the collar, using a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance.
- You must use a zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch; otherwise, the thread won’t be able to stretch with the collar as you pull the finished garment over your head.
- Use your hands to gently stretch the ribbing as you sew it onto the shirt. Keep it somewhat taut so that no folds form in the connecting fabric.
- 5 Pin the sleeves to the armholes. Keep the shirt open and flat at the shoulder, but flip it over so that the right-side faces up. Position the sleeves right-side down and pin in place.
- Position the rounded portion of the sleeve against the rounded portion of the armhole. Pin the middle of both curves together.
- Gradually position and pin the rest of the sleeve curve to the rest of the armhole, working on one side at a time.
- Repeat this process for both sleeves.
- 6 Sew the sleeves. With the right-sides facing down, sew a straight stitch along both sleeves, connecting them to the armholes in the process.
- The seam allowance should match the seam allowance you marked on your original pattern. If you’re following this tutorial exactly, the amount should be 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).
- 7 Stitch down both sides. Fold the shirt with its right-sides facing. Sew a straight stitch down the entire right side of the shirt, working from the tip of the underarm seam straight down to the bottom opening. Repeat on the left side of the shirt when finished.
- Pin down the sleeves and sides before stitching them together; otherwise, the material may shift as you work.
- Follow the seam allowance you marked on your original pattern. For this tutorial, the seam allowance is 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).
- 8 Fold and sew a bottom hem. With the right-sides still facing, fold the bottom edge up according to your original seam allowance. Pin or press the fold in place, then stitch around the opening.
- Make sure that you only stitch the hem in place. Do not sew the front and back sides of the shirt together.
- Most knits are fray-resistant, so you may not need to sew a bottom hem. Doing so can create a neater appearance, though.
- 9 Fold and sew sleeve hems. With the right-sides facing, fold up the edge of each sleeve opening according to your original seam allowance. Pin or press the fold, then stitch along the opening.
- Like the bottom edge, you must stitch around the opening to avoid sewing the front and back together.
- You may not need to hem the sleeves if the material is fray-resistant, but they’ll look neater if you do.
- 10 Iron the seams. Turn the shirt right-side out again. Use an iron to flatten all the seam.
- This includes the seams along the collar, shoulders, sleeves, and sides. You may also wish to press the hems, if you did not do so before sewing them in place.
- 11 Try on the shirt. At this point, the shirt should be finished and ready to wear.
Add New Question
- Question Can I sew this by hand? Yes, but it will be more time consuming than if you sew it by machine.
- Question How can I know which is the left and which is the right sleeve? Form voltron Community Answer The two sleeve pieces are the same until you sew them onto the shirt. You cut them out from the same shape, so left and right are identical.
- Question Do I need to wash the fabric first? No, but it is better if you do, because you want to make sure that it will not shrink afterwards.
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If you don’t want to draft your own pattern, use a pre-made pattern. Most fabric stores (and craft stores that sell fabric) sell patterns, and basic shirt patterns will likely be among the selection. You can also find basic patterns online for free or cheap.
- Existing t-shirt
- Fabric pencil
- Plain paper (plain newsprint, drafting paper, brown package paper, etc.)
- Straight pins
- Fabric scissors, fabric shears, or rotary fabric cutter
- 1 to 2 yds (1 to 2 m) knit fabric
- 1/4 yd (1/4 m) knit ribbing
- Sewing machine
- Coordinating sewing thread
- Ironing board
Article Summary X To sew a shirt, start by pinning the shoulders of the body pieces together with the right side facing inwards. Next, use a straight stitch to sew along both shoulders before opening up the shirt with the right side facing down, pinning the ribbing to the neckline, and sewing it in place with a zigzag stitch.